 | Marconi Beach, Cape Cod | | | | | Brekke Fletcher | Newsletter Editor | | | Back in ye olde 1850s, Henry David Thoreau wrote in his book, Cape Cod, "The time must come when this coast will be a place of resort for those New-Englanders who really wish to visit the sea-side." Nothing could be more true. Every summer people come in droves to experience Cape Cod's singular charm, myriad outdoor attractions, including beaches, cranberry bogs and whale watching. And lest you think of the Cape as a bastion of ye olde white privilege, it's evolved into a summertime paradise for all people – singles, families, couples, LGBTIQ+ folx, people of color, people with disabilities, young and old alike. Provincetown is a particular favorite – a flourishing cultural and culinary hotspot that brings the heat all summer long, particularly during Pride weekend (June 3-5 this year). The Cape Cod National Seashore is another, encompassing 40 miles of shoreline around the curve of the Outer Cape, from Orleans all the way to Provincetown. | | Lobster roll from Arnold's | | | But honestly, I go to the Cape for the lobster rolls. I'm not embarrassed to be such a basic Brekke. I could eat them every single day. My best friend, Julie, swears that Arnold's Lobster & Clam Bar has the best one by far, but I think it's because she likes the mini-golf and the ice cream. My go-to is The Canteen in P-town, which I eat with Cape Cod chips to be extra obvious. Whichever of the Cape's 15 towns you visit, you're going to eat well and often, you're going to galavant in the sunshine and lick drippy ice cream from your hand and get sand all over yourself. It's beautifully messy, wind-blown, sun-tinged and divine, just the platonic ideal of a New England summer beach getaway. | | | | | Brekke Fletcher is a travel writer and editor whose work has appeared in TIME Magazine, The Wall Street Journal and CNN. Now she oversees Newsletters for Lonely Planet and loves every minute of it. | | | A long weekend in Cape Cod is a perfect way to kick off (or cap off) your summer. If you're looking for ideas for how to make the most of your getaway, look no further. We've got you covered. | | Map of Cape Cod, Massachusetts | | | | | | | Find a B&B with local flavor. The Candleberry Inn in Brewster gets high marks for charm and comfort. The Black-owned Captain Farris House in South Yarmouth is another great option – hosts Carol and Jeff Watson are known for their awesome breakfasts. | | | | | Rent a bike: The Cape Cod Rail Trail runs from Yarmouth to Wellfleet with 22 miles of paved pathway. There are three bicycle rental options along the trail which takes you through cranberry bogs, parks and wetlands. | | | | | Get wet and wild. The salt water ponds are off the beaten path and not to be missed. Check out Great Pond in Truro or ask a local for a recommendation (and directions). For action on the shore, we love Coast Guard Beach in Eastham, for swimming and history (this is where the Mayflower landed). | | | | | Book in advance. See the extraordinary Provincetown Dunes within The Cape Cod National Seashore with Art's Dune Tours, which has been operating for 75 years. And do not miss whale watching. A friend of Lonely Planet reported seeing three generations of humpback whales last summer: grandmother, mother and calf. We recommend going with Dolphin Fleet. | | | Choose wisely: The best ways to get to the Cape | You can drive, sure, and it's definitely easier to get around to various towns if you have a car. But, there are some other fine options that keep you from facing all that bridge traffic and will deliver you to your destination in style. | | | New seaplane service from Tailwind Air connects Boston and New York to Provincetown.Tailwind: Is it economical? No.. Is it the fastest option? Yes. | | If you're not P-town bound, you can take the weekend-only CapeFlyer from Boston to Hyannis, which offers six stops along the way. | | Bay Street Cruise Company provides daily, seasonal (May - September) ferry service from Boston to Provincetown. It's comfy, it's fast and you can bring your bike. | | | Don't miss Cape Cod this summer | | | We caught up with Andrew Nodel, a journalist who relocated to the Cape during the pandemic after years working in New York City, to ask him about his favorite places to go, things to do and the summer scene in Provincetown. | | | | Andrew driving in Cape Cod | | | | | I was born in Cape Cod hospital, so I'm a native Cape Codder. | | | What's it like to live on Cape Cod year round? | The Cape in the wintertime is a very different place than in the Cape in the summertime.I recently got my haircut by a native Cape Codder, and we were both lamenting the fact that the tourist season is starting. It's an inevitable and welcome part of our economy, but we suffer through the entire winter only to have throngs of people take over our beaches and restaurants. | September and October are the most glorious times on the Cape. | | | | | Take in the sunset at Race Point. It has unobstructed views from east to west. | | | What part of the Cape is the most … Capey? | Growing up in Dennis, so I'm partial to this town. We have beaches on the north and south, on Nantucket Sound in Cape Cod Bay, and lakes in between. There are so many options for swimming, boating and sailing. | If you're looking for a really charming New England village, Sandwich is incredible. The Heritage Museum and Gardens and a world-class car museum. There's also a natural spring drinking fountain that has been there for hundreds of years, and people stop and fill their jugs with water. | | | | | What's the vibe in Provincetown? | You're going to meet a mix of locals, urbanites and people from all over the world come every summer, so you get so many different points of view. Everyone's there to have a good time, and it's a really welcoming place. | You can have any kind of experience. You can do a whale watch and have a lovely dinner on the ocean, visit some galleries or you can stay out all night dancing until 2am at A-House. | | | | | "Cape Cod is my home and my heart. It has made me who I am." | | | What are your P-town favorites? | Mac's Fish House is one of my absolute favorites for seafood. It's very casual, and you can just kind of pop in and it's a counter service situation. It rivals some of the best restaurants I've ever been to in major world cities. | Spiritus Pizza is a great place to end the night. For brunch I go to Liz's – it's a good "hair of the dog" spot for me and they do fantastic cocktails. | | | Any secret Provincetown spots you love? | There's this dive bar that I went to on my last trip, and I can't believe I hadn't been there before, called the Old Colony Tap. The ceiling dips in such a way that it feels like you're inside a sinking ship. You get every walk of life, and it's the perfect place to just sit with your friends and people watch. They have a great jukebox that plays actual CDs. | | | Provincetown opened a new funicular in April that runs from the base of High Pole Hill up to the Pilgrim Monument. | | | How do you warm up for weekends? | There's a Friday evening program I'm devoted to on WOMR, the local community-supported radio station. It's called "Leggs Up and Dancing with Lady Di." She plays all sorts of music, sings along, and she's such a character, such a gem. If you want that local color and to hear what Provincetown is all about, listen to Lady Di on WOMR. | | | What's your perfect summer night? | I'd load friends into my convertible and drive up to Provincetown. We'd get a civilized cocktail at Red Inn, watch the sunset and make our way to the Tea Dance at The Boat Slip. Then we'd have dinner at Sinners and Saints and go out dancing again at A-House. | | | | Where do you send people who are looking for something else uniquely Cape Cod? | Smith Family Popcorn in Hyannis. It's run by my best friend's family and is a great alternative to the bevy of ice cream shops and other kinds of sweets you find around here. If you don't make it to the Cape, they have one at Logan Airport in Boston. | | | Hot Travel Summer! Come back next week when we'll be answering all your burning questions about summer travel this year. No matter where you're headed, or when, we're here to help you make the most of the sunny season. -xo Brekke | | | How would you rate this newsletter? | | | This email was sent to you by: | Lonely Planet Publications Ltd. | 1101 Red Ventures Drive, Fort Mill, SC 29707 | | | |
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